Patrick Grant feels more free in his relaxed take on a suit compared to “mean” tucked in versions.
The British designer is famous in London’s Savile Row thanks to being the creative director of bespoke tailors Norton & Sons and he also helms brand E. Tautz, for which he’s won accolades including the British Fashion Council/GQ Designer Menswear Fund.
Although he appreciates the skill put into a traditional suit Grant has mixed things up by creating comfortable, wide-legged trousers season after season, which enables the wearer to feel more relaxed.
“Initially, I enjoyed that neat, tucked up, corseted, tailored look,” he told gq.com. “And then, it just started to feel old and a bit marginalised and just a bit mean. I spent 10 years tucked into a suit, and now we’re free to move.
“When you’re wearing tailored clothes, you have to follow formulas. The colours have to be in, the tie knot has to be small. All those rules apply. But when things loosen up, you can just relax.”
Grant recently showed his latest E- Tautz collection at London Fashion Week Men’s, with an array of loose-fitting pants hitting the runway worn in a variety of ways, from with a blue T-shirt and open shirt to being paired with a woollen jumper.
He hopes the male audience will pick up on his unique approach to tailoring, having already witnessed positive reactions during a trip to New York in 2016.
“There’s a ‘you look weird’ look,” he explained. “(In New York) I wore a grey-brown, completely unconstructed (suit). It was big. It was drapey. And the look was, ‘Actually that looks quite cool.’
“People who love clothes get bored of dressing the same way all the time. It takes 10, 15 years, and then all of the sudden, we’ll swing back the other way again.”